Entering a Time Warp – The Kariba Ferry across Lake Kariba in Zimbabwe

The choice of dribbling along for twenty-two hours across an expanse of water or battling for forty-eight hours across corrugated roads and bottomless potholes was an easy one. It was an especially easy decision as it was like entering a time capsule – The Kariba Ferry. We squeezed onto one of the three available berths reserved for Dogcatchers, turned off the ignition, and headed for a gin and tonic.
After almost two decades in dry dock the old Kariba Ferry, The Sea Lion, has been given a new lease of life and they are making up for lost time with their fares. Still, this is one of the most enjoyable ways to travel. We had a complement of perhaps a dozen passengers; one extended family and us. Our quarters were to find ourselves so we laid out two canvas mattresses on deck for the duration of the journey and made camp. We were joined, sardine fashion, at night, under the stars, by the other dozen which made for a cozy night. Drinks were preceded by plates of salty kapenta, the local whitebait, which made you want to drink more. The main meal was meat and two veg, and so good it was too, as was the impeccable service on board.
We stopped late into the day, in the middle of the lake, to change engines, and everyone went for a swim – crocs or no crocs it is the right thing to do. It is timeless. The chairs in the lounge reclined, and then turned into beds at night and they have never been replaced – nor had the blankets. But this is part of the charm, it was returning to the 70s, just without the bad haircuts, and long may it last.